How to Build Unforgettable Experience
hiroki_abe
Chef Abe, the founder of the New York-based Japanese catering Abe’s Kitchen and Abento, discusses his path to becoming an established chef and building his own business. He shares experience and tips on how to cultivate skills, build a resume, and deliver unique experiences to customers. He emphasizes the importance of learning the fundamentals of cuisine and building strong relationships at each restaurant along the way.
Episode 1: New momentum in culinary career path
Circle: Today, we have Chef Abe with us. Thank you for joining us.
Abe: Thank you for having me.
Circle: I heard that your family runs a restaurant in Fukuoka. Can you tell us about your background, career, including your time in the United States?
Abe: Sure. After graduating high school, I went to culinary school. I started helping out at home with things like dishwashing since kindergarten, but I only began cooking seriously after entering culinary school. After that, I worked in Fukuoka City for five years.
Circle: Did you always want to become a chef since you were little?
Abe: Not really. People around me would say, “You’ll take over your family business,” but I was only into wrestling in high school. I went on a wrestling trip to Hawaii and was captivated by the overseas experience. That’s when I thought, “I want to work abroad someday,” regardless of my future career. I did decide to attend culinary school after high school. Afterward, I traveled to the UK, France, and Italy to gain experience as a foundational chef. I wanted to use cooking as a means to travel the world. At the time, “Iron Chef” was a big program in Japan; seeing chefs compete internationally inspired me. However, a mentor from culinary school distinctly advised not to go abroad immediately if I wanted to do Japanese cuisine. They said I needed at least three years in Japan to thoroughly learn the basics. So, after building my foundation in Japan, I started looking for work in America. It took another two years to get a visa, so I worked in Japan for a total of five years. The fundamentals I learned early in my career allow me to adapt and innovate now. If I had moved to the US earlier, or without proper preparation, I couldn’t have made it this far.
Circle: Do you have any tips for chefs in the US to learn the fundamentals of authentic Japanese cuisine?
Abe: Going to Japan is definitely the best way to learn real Japanese cuisine. If you want to learn authentic Japanese food, you have to go to the country itself, just like people go to Italy or France to learn Italian or French cuisine. Japanese food in Japan and America are different. In Japan, it's important to bring out the natural flavors of the ingredients. Customers in America tend to want sauce on everything, so their expectations are different. For instance, even with traditional Japanese vegetarian food (shojin ryori), American customers—including vegans—will ask for sauce. Or with kara-age (fried chicken), Japanese customers would be happy with just lemon juice to enhance the flavor, but in America, people expect sauces. So, you have to consider that the customers you are serving are entirely different, even if the cuisine is the same. I realized this as a head chef seeing which dishes sold best: those with sauces were more popular. Understanding what your customers want and providing it in a way as close as possible to authentic Japanese cuisine (for example, pairing the most complementary sauce) has been a key to success here.
No matter how delicious your food is, if it doesn't resonate with customers, it’s meaningless. In that regard, large restaurants like EN can cater to diners with various needs—vegans, gluten-free, religious preferences, and more. But to adjust and adapt, you must have first mastered the basics of Japanese cuisine.
And for those aspiring to master Japanese cuisine, I always ask: what does Japanese cuisine mean to you? How authentic do you want to be? If your goal is to pursue authentic Japanese cuisine, I recommend working in a fine dining (kaiseki-style) establishment. If you're interested in the business side, work at a large Japanese restaurant.
Circle: After gaining experience in Japan, you came to America. Can you tell us about your first job at a restaurant here?
Abe: I arrived in America on April 1, 2001. I still remember being surprised by daylight saving time on my very first day. I started working immediately, but at that time, Japanese food in America was mainly things like teriyaki chicken. It felt less sophisticated than in Japan. Especially since I came with the image of chefs like Morimoto from “Iron Chef,” it was surprising.
Circle: How long did you stay at the first restaurant?
Abe: I was in New York for two and a half years at that first restaurant. Then I moved to EN, working as second-in-command for five years and as head chef from 2009 to 2019.
Circle: How did you become the head chef?
Abe: I started as second-in-command at EN. When the head chef decided to leave, the owner planned to hire someone directly from Japan. I felt I was the best fit, so I asked to be considered for the role and was fortunate to be appointed. I remember clearly going to the owner and saying, “I want to be the head chef.”
Circle: Do you have any tips for landing chef roles in New York City?
Abe: One thing I can say is that the perfect job you envision will never come around. You have to make an effort to learn wherever you are and make everything your own. This may be a bit off-topic, but many Japanese people tend to stay in one restaurant, whereas in America, once people have learned what they wanted, they move on. They learn, work hard, gain recognition, and build their track record at each place. In the US, it’s common to move every six months to a year. Every restaurant has something good about it; it’s important to find those strengths and work hard in whatever environment you’re in. This mindset is critical. Even within the same eight-hour shift, how you spend your time makes a big difference. I’ve seen many restaurants, and everyone has a different approach. It’s about whether you have a learning attitude or just go through the motions.
Chefs will understand this: a lot of care goes into family meals (staff meals). The staff can feel it. While making family meals is usually a job for the lower-ranked staff, your attitude toward this task matters greatly. There's a significant difference in how earnestly you approach your daily work. Especially with staff meals—since you’re making them for others—your approach is important, whether or not you’re recognized for it.
You always need to keep learning, no matter how long you’ve been doing it. Everything depends on you. Can you do your best in your current environment? Always try your best, and put yourself where you can excel. To do that, you need a genuine interest; otherwise, you won’t feel motivated to learn.
Episode 2: Becoming a catering chef
Circle: Did you feel any pressure as the head chef?
Abe: I didn’t feel much pressure. I was more excited to see my efforts succeed every day. I created all the menus by myself, based on Japanese cuisine but tailored for American tastes. I think this approach significantly boosted our sales. At that time, there were no izakaya (Japanese pubs) in America, and I wanted to offer authentic Japanese home-style cooking. The ingredients were limited compared to Japan, but I enjoyed the challenge of creating menus with local ingredients. I also introduced the concept of sharing dishes, which wasn’t common in America back then. This high-end izakaya style was well-received.
Circle: How did you come up with the izakaya style, and did you think it would work in NY?
Abe: At first, I went through a lot of trial and error to understand American customers, but after gaining experience as a head chef, I became confident in serving delicious food, and what I think is delicious. I only serve dishes that I am confident in. Earlier, I mentioned that you have to make what the customers ultimately want to eat, but in such cases, I create from my own perspective. Especially when creating something new, the head chef's vision and experience become crucial. The chef's special is precisely about that. When I moved to LA to be the Executive Chef at Chateau Hanare in 2019, I had a different challenge. I had to bring a new style of presenting sushi. In NY, serving sushi one piece at a time was already recognized and people expected that when they went to a proper high-end Japanese restaurant. Everything takes time for customers to understand “oh this is the authentic way of dining.” And this applies to not only to customers but also chefs and cooks.
Circle: What do you think about the differences between cooking in LA and New York?
Abe: Compared to LA, New York has a lot of chefs eager to learn new things. New York is always incorporating the latest ingredients and techniques. Even distributors in New York are more inclined to recommend new products. This environment naturally pushes chefs to master new ingredients and techniques, fostering a competitive atmosphere.
Circle: How challenging was it to introduce new ingredients, techniques, menus?
Abe: Introducing new things was challenging but rewarding. I think the team was very supportive, we were able to try, implement the new menus and found a way to make it work. My style really picked up and earned me popularity among chefs. The owner also supported my new endeavors, which made the process smooth.
Circle: What led to your transition from a brilliant career to becoming a catering chef? Was it an easy decision?
Abe: The transition to a catering chef was largely due to the pandemic. I had joined a new restaurant as the head chef to earn a Michelin star. We had a compelling plan to serve a course manu, pairing meals with cocktails made by a world champion bartender. But the pandemic hit three months after I started. The owner proposed to postpone the project for three years. I couldn’t wait that long, so I began exploring new paths.
Circle: How did you start as a catering chef?
Abe: During the pandemic, because we had to postpone, I worked at a takeout shop that the owner had, selling bento boxes with wagyu beef. I knew this bento movement would be big. On the side, I had started “Abe’s Kitchen” in September 2019 and began selling my bento boxes there as well. They were well-received, and the business grew. I used my days off to sell bento boxes, and a friend eventually let me use their kitchen, allowing me to focus more on my business. Finding the right materials for authentic Japanese bento boxes was challenging, but I managed to provide high-quality bento.
Circle: Why did you transition from bento to catering?
Abe: Initially, I focused on bento, but larger restaurants also started selling bento, and I realized I couldn’t compete in volume. That’s when I shifted to catering, leveraging the flexibility and quick response time that individual operations have. Even during the peak of the pandemic, I adapted quickly, sometimes even taking COVID tests at customers’ doorsteps.
Circle: How did you learn the knowledge to run a business as a catering chef? Did you have formal training or education?
Abe: No, I did not have a good knowledge of the business or any training as a business owner. But I want to emphasize, as an owner, I now truly realize how difficult it is. I am more grateful than ever to the previous owners of EN and all those who have helped me along the way. When I was an employee, I didn't think about these things, but as an owner, you are responsible for supporting the lives of your employees and their families. The weight and magnitude of responsibility are completely different. Also, as an owner, it’s a problem if someone quits. The responsibility is immense. Unlike when I was an employee, I can't just quit and move on to the next job. In that sense, there is no stability. I am very grateful to those around me who I can consult with during tough times. As I mentioned earlier, it's crucial to build solid trust relationships in your workplace and various other places.
Episode 3: Building your own brand as a catering chef
Circle: What is an undervalued component of building a new business?
Abe: I hired a PR company from the beginning to strengthen Instagram promotions. Building your own brand as a catering chef involves more than just cooking great food. It requires a strategic approach that combines culinary excellence with business acumen, marketing savvy, and a deep understanding of your target audience. In a competitive place like NY, no matter how good your food is, people need to know about it first. Effective PR is crucial. Learning this at EN, I knew we had to make a strong initial effort to attract customers. Without visibility, even the best efforts are futile.
Circle: How did your prior experiences shape your values as a chef and influence the perception of your brand?
Abe: While working at En as a head chef, I was privileged to cook and serve for some of the best customers. They know what’s good and what’s not good. And when they encounter what’s good, they like to know who is behind it. Because I invested a huge amount of time creating a menu that wows customers and tastes authentic Japanese, I was able to build my name. A recognized name attracts customers, opportunities, and media attention, which can lead to career advancement and business growth. When people associate your name with quality, innovation, and exceptional dining experiences, it builds trust and loyalty, ensuring sustained success and influence in the competitive food industry. It was very obvious to me that your name needs to be known in order for the customers to taste your food.
Circle: Did you have a clear brand image for Abe's Kitchen from the start?
Abe: Not initially. During the pandemic, I was just hoping my friends would buy my bento. It was more of a pastime, given the uncertain duration of the pandemic. But not knowing when the pandemic would end, and then seeing the bento boxes become so popular among Japanese customers, it became more of a long term project. I also think being a small operation allowed me to act swiftly, something a larger restaurant couldn’t do.
Circle: Considering your time at EN and other well-resourced restaurants, did you find being a catering chef to be constraining?
Abe: While I had more resources working at restaurants, it does not mean my menu as a catering chef is limited. A catering menu still needs to embody the taste and aesthetics delivered at a restaurant in order to meet the customers’ expectations. Here are some points that were critical in building my catering brand, Abento:
- Have a signature dish, which showcases your skills and unique approach to cooking (for example, when you see tuna with jalapeno, you would think of “the one brand”)
- Incorporate seasonal ingredients and local produce to enhance freshness and appeal. Especially when you have repeat customers, they really enjoy that we provide changes
- Cater to different tastes and dietary requirements. Offer a range of options to make communication with customers as smooth as possible. Meeting dietary needs is very effective at enabling a loyal customer base.
- Allow clients to customize their menus while keeping the signature dishes. This flexibility can be a significant selling point.
- Invest in beautiful plating and presentation. First impressions are crucial in catering and food is almost always initially presented visually. I leverage Instagram and digital channels to emphasize this with potential customers.
Circle: What are some secrets to success from your time running Abento?
Abe: Throughout my career, I wanted to deliver exceptional customer experience. I try to take the time to understand the specific needs and preferences of each client. If you can cater unforgettable experiences, customers are more likely to repeat, so I would customize menus to fit the theme and requirements of the event.
My catering motto is, “Catering that is kind to the host, leaves the house cleaner.” While America has such a big house party culture, preparing for the party could be a headache to the host. I wanted to build a catering business that takes stress off the host. So when our first-time clients experience our catering, they are always surprised how easy it is for them to send requests, have us set up everything, and leave the kitchen cleaner than we found it.
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